Philadelphia has history, world-class museums and theaters, a phenomenal music scene, shopping districts to satisfy every style, and celebrated restaurants. The city has also emerged as one of the leading food cities in the country—shining at the 2017 James Beard Awards by taking three of the top honors—and it’s getting better all the time.

Barcelona Wine Bar in Philadelphia, Pa. [Photo by Tom McGovern; courtesy Barcelona Wine Bar]
South Philly
South Philly still retains much of its Italian immigrant flavor. Along East Passyunk Avenue (the locals pronounce it “Pashyunk”) a new crop of bars and restaurants is sprinkled between old shops where you can get custom clothing alterations or your sofa reupholstered.
Start at the far end of Passyunk at Pistola’s Del Sur, a Mexican restaurant with a diverse tequila and mezcal list. Try The Stitch, a smoky/tart cocktail with mezcal, Campari, grapefruit shrub, agave, and bitters. Or, dare to drink the spicy El Diablo Margarita made with serrano pepper and cilantro.

The Bottle Shop in Philadelphia, Pa. [Photo courtesy The Bottle Shop]
Head another block or so to Barcelona Wine Bar and choose from 40 wines by the glass. In the summer, grab a table on the large outside patio and enjoy tapas with a glass of Spanish albariño or Portuguese vinho verde.
Cross the street and head to The Bottle Shop, a craft beer and wine takeout store where you can drink what you buy. There’s no table service, but you can pay at the register and grab a table to enjoy one of their 500+ beers by the bottle or can, six beers on tap, or a bottle of wine with food that you bring yourself.

Ray’s Happy Birthday Bar in Philadelphia, Pa. [Photo courtesy Ray’s]
Finally, walk the few blocks to an 80-year-old gem, Ray’s Happy Birthday Bar. If it happens to be your birthday, you’ll get a free shot, be serenaded by everyone at the bar, and have your photo posted on Facebook. The bar, one of the few left in the city where you can still smoke a cigarette inside, opens at 7 a.m.; the barstools are often filled by 7:10 by regulars, but newcomers are always welcome.
Center City
The very walkable Center City is Philly’s downtown area. It starts at historic Old City with its cobblestone streets, and continues through Midtown and Rittenhouse Square, ending at the Schuylkill River. It’ll be tough not to stop every few steps to take in some history.

Chocolate martini at McGillin’s Olde Ale House [Photo courtesy McGillin’s]
Walk a few blocks to Khyber Pass Pub, where the back bar was crafted by German woodworkers and used in the 1876 Centennial Celebration. The pub is known for its 22 rotating beer taps and plenty of craft bottles, as well as its selection of whiskey and Scotch. Whatever you choose, you’ll want to order the smoky-sweet, fresh popped, bacon grease popcorn to accompany it.
McGillin’s Olde Ale House, the oldest continuously operating tavern in the city, is continuously crowded, but there’s always room for a few more at this historic, two-story bar. There are 30 beers on tap, many of them local. If you’re lucky, you’ll be served by John Doyle, a Philadelphia icon who’s been tending bar at McGillan’s for upwards of 40 years. Make sure to fill out a free McGillan’s postcard, give it to your server or bartender, and they’ll mail it for you.

Canterbury Tales at The Dandelion in Philadelphia, Pa. [Photo by Kelly Smith; courtesy The Dandelion]
Finish in Rittenhouse Square with a cocktail at The Dandelion. With a bar downstairs, a bar upstairs, and a cozy seating area with a fireplace on the floor in between, this British pub by James Beard Award-winning restaurateur Stephen Star serves classic and seasonal cocktails. Try the English pub’s Pimm’s Deluxe made with Pimm’s, locally distilled Bluecoat gin, lemon, and cucumber.
Northern Liberties/Fishtown/Kensington

Urban Village Brewing Co. in Philadelphia, Pa. [Photo courtesy Urban Brewing]
Start in Northern Liberties, just north of Center City, where Urban Village Brewing Company offers a true taste of Pennsylvania libations. The brewpub serves its own beers, of course, but its bar menu also includes local wines (and only local wines) plus cocktails made exclusively with spirits distilled in the state.

Frankly My Dear at Standard Tap in Philadelphia, Pa. [Photo courtesy Standard Tap]
From Northern Liberties, head north to Fishtown and stop at Kensington Quarters, where beverage manager Tim Kweeder has created one of the city’s most respected drink menus. The well-crafted seasonally changing cocktails, eight taps dedicated strictly to local beer, and six wines on tap are joined by bottles of wine focused on smaller winegrowers who farm organically, sustainably, and biodynamically.
Keep heading north until you hit Kensington, and stop at the cozy Peacock Room inside Philadelphia Brewing Co. to enjoy the beer or Commonwealth Cider made right on the premises. Try the Prosecco-like traditional dry cider by the fireplace in the colder weather or outside at the picnic-y square across the street.

Martha in Philadelphia, Pa. [Peach Plum Pear Photogrpahy; courtesy Martha]
Manayunk
The Manayunk neighborhood is named for a Native American word that literally means “where we go to drink.” This hilly section of the city, along the Schuylkill River, lives up to its name—especially along Main Street.

Goat’s Beard in Philadelphia, Pa. [Photo courtesy Goat’s Beard]
Right up the block is SOMO, with a calm vibe, pop culture-named cocktails (a Rusty Griswold, anyone?) and a menu of “saki-tails.” Try the Lychee-tini with nigori sake and lychee juice.

Jake’s and Cooper’s Wine Bar in Philadelphia, Pa. [Photo courtesy Jake’s and Cooper’s]